Article | eTrixie — part seven

eTrixie — part seven

High Currents

In this part we’ll talk about high voltage and current cabling, switches and fuses.

So far I’ve got conduits running down the tunnel from under the back seat to the front of the car. These will carry cables from the battery in the front to the back. I also have the front and rear battery boxes in place. So the next challenge is to hook the two batteries up and connect them to the motor.

The copper cables to do this job are double insulated with a bright orange outer layer. The wire is stranded copper so it remains fairly flexible and has a cross-sectional area of 70mm². Often called welding cable, this cable is designed to carry high voltages (120v in this case) and high currents (peaks of 100s of amps).

70mm² (AWG 2/0) Cable for eTrixie

70mm² (AWG 2/0) Cable for eTrixie

The cables need to be protected from fault currents; in this case with 600 amp fuses. Also I need a “master switch” — a manual switch I can throw to disconnect the battery. To meet the standards of the LVVTA both poles (positive and negative) of both battery banks need to be fused and switched as close as practical to the battery. So eTrixie needs to have two big dual pole switches and four 600 amp fuses. This is a pretty sensible precaution!

Fuses and Dual Pole Switches

Fuses and Dual Pole Switches

The hook-up of the batteries, fuses, switches, contactors, shunt and motor required 24 terminations. I was pretty nervous each time I had to cut the cable (mistakes would be expensive!) but I grew in confidence — a clean cut is essential so the stranded cable does not fray, but instead slides freely into the copper lug. Also a hydraulic crimper ensures a great termination. And then finished off with a heavy adhesive lined heatshrink!

Crimpers and cutter

Crimpers and cutter

Terminated cable (sorry the heatshrink is a bit rough on this one)

Terminated cable (sorry the heatshrink is a bit rough on this one)

Read more about the conversion:

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